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The FMP Cutting Board

I previously mentioned that I install Rhodia pads in my Field Message Pad backwards, such that the thick cardboard backing is on top. This way when I open the pad, the cardboard provides a surface for writing on the back of the pages, where otherwise I would be writing on top of the FMP cover’s tool slots and the stuff carried within them. This means the other side of the pad has a less firm backing. On a fresh pad this is not an issue, but can become one as pages are consumed and the thickness of the stack of remaining pages is reduced.

My latest innovation in Field Message Pad technology is the addition of a cutting board.

FMP Cutting Board

I keep a number of thin HDPE cutting boards on hand at home. I don’t use these in the kitchen, where I care about my knives, but as project mats. If I’m gluing something, or cutting material with a utility knife, I’ll throw one of these mats down to protect the work surface.

I traced a 4x6” square out on one of these, cut it out with a utility knife, and gave the 4 corners a few passes with a file. The resulting piece slides down the back slot of the FMP cover, behind the notebook. With this underneath, and the Rhodia’s cardboard backing on top, I have a firm writing surface from the first page of the notebook to the last, on both sides of the page.

FMP Cutting Board

Being able to take notes on a stable surface while standing up, with the FMP in one hand and a pen in the other, feels like a super power.

Also, I always have an A6-sized cutting board with me now. Perhaps for impromptu charcuterie.

Screwing, Redux

Since I outlined it in 2018, my EDC tool kit has not changed much. It is still based around the same titanium Fix It Sticks, and intended primarily as a vehicular repair kit.

Sticks of Fixing

It is still carried in the same cuben fiber packing cube from Mountain Laurel Designs (since discontinued and replaced by the otherwise equivalent Ultra X 100 Packing Cubes), though said cube is much worse for wear. Some of the smaller bits have poked a couple holes in the bottom of the pouch. I’ve patched this with Tenacious Tape on both the inside and the outside.

The bit selection has been augmented slightly. Installed in the Fix It Sticks are my most frequently used 1/4” drive bits.

  • Torx T20s
  • Torx T25s
  • Phillips #2
  • Hex 4mm

In the bit holder, I carry additional 1/4” drive bits.

  • Hex 1.5mm
  • Hex 2mm
  • Hex 2.5mm
  • Hex 3mm
  • Hex 5mm
  • Hex 5mm x 50mm
  • Hex 6mm
  • Hex 8mm
  • Torx T8s
  • Phillips #0
  • Slotted 0.6mm x 4.5mm
  • 4mm MicroBit Adapter, holding a slotted 0.25mm x 1.5mm

Keen eyed readers will notice two 5mm hex bits. The longer, 50mm bit is needed to reach into my Gevenalle CX Shifters to adjust the mounting bolt. This longer bit can also be used to provide a turning tool to be used with my Pitlock key. (In 2018 I discussed using the longer Torx T25 bit for this. I now carry a standard length T25s, since I need the longer 5mm hex for the shifters.) My rear Phil Wood Touring Hub takes two 5mm wrenches to remove the end caps. Doing this allows the cassette to be removed from the wheel, providing easy access to repair a broken drive-side spoke without messing around with cassette removal tools.

Mini Knipex Cobra Pliers are only used infrequently, but are so useful when I do need them that I put up with their extra weight in the kit.

The Fix It Sticks tire levels and chain breaker still live in the kit, though I have been debating removing the chain breaker. It is compact but heavy, and it has been about 15 years since I last had an incident that required a chain breaker on the road. It would definitely be in the kit for any multi-day trips.

My Pitlock key is on a Flex-o-loc key ring. The ring also holds a spare KMC CL559R Missing Link, a Maratac Titanium Peanut Lighter, and a CountyComm Titanium Piccolo Capsule that holds two small security bolts.

A small cuben fiber zip pouch holds my patch kit and one FiberFix, including that little spoke wrench that comes with the FiberFix (annoying to use, yes, but agreeably small and light).

EDC Toolkit

Tools for Floor Sitting

I get my zafus from Carolina Morning Designs. Originally I bought one of their crescent models. This is what I took on the 10-day meditation retreat I went on in 2006. Some years after that I bought one of their standard models, and gave away the crescent zafu. I regret this slightly. Between the two, I think the standard round shape is the one to have. But I have been thinking about buying a crescent model again so that I can have one of each.

As with head pillows, buckwheat hulls are my preferred filling for a zafu.

There are a few ways to sit on a zafu, but all of them involve floor contact with the knees, lower legs, and feet. On some floors this can be less than comfortable. The solution here is a zabuton, which is a larger rectangular pillow that goes underneath the zafu. I have a 25” x 31” zabuton from Carolina Morning Designs and a 23” x 25” linen zabuton from Etsy.

The Carolina Morning Designs zabuton is filled with kapok fibre. This is a soft and fluffy material, sort of like a blend between cotton and down. The linen zabuton is filled with buckwheat hulls. While I like buckwheat hulls for structural pillows, the zabuton is used purely for padding. Buckwheat has less of an advantage here. I like both, but I use my kapok zabuton more often.

For all my Carolina Morning Designs pillows, I purchase their removable covers. Cleaning furniture is much easier when you don’t have to go through the hassle of dumping the stuffing. I do not have a removable cover for the linen zabuton, and filling all its individual baffles with buckwheat hulls was an annoying process that I do not want to go through again, so it only gets spot-cleaned.

Sitting on a zafu utilizes core and back muscles. For times when you want to be especially lazy, a chair with a back is preferred. The best option I have found is the HIHIP Floor Chair. This is extremely comfortable. Unlike many floor chairs, it folds, and thus stores (somewhat) compactly. This is actually the only chair I use at home. All other sitting tools or either pillows or stools.

Battle Station

After trying a number of floor tables over the years, I’ve whittled my collection down to two. The Nnewvante Floor Table and the Cooper Desk Pro.

The Cooper Desk Pro is what I use most often. It provides a 23.5” x 17.7” surface, covered with a faux leather that feels pleasant and is easy to wipe clean. It is height adjustable, from 10” to 15”. When deployed, the legs angle out slightly, which allows my own legs to fit under the desk if I am sitting in the chair with my legs straight out. The table also tilts at a few preset angles, but I almost never use this feature.

The Nnewvante Floor Table is only slightly larger at 29.5” x 17.7”, but in use it feels much larger than the Cooper Desk. I rarely need the extra surface area, so I don’t pull this table out as often. It also is height adjustable, from 10” to 15”. Where the Cooper Desk has five preset height positions, this one allows you to stop the legs anywhere within the adjustable range. That sounds nice, but in practice means that you sometimes have to do a little back-and-forth to get both legs at the same height. Because of this I just leave the adjustment at whatever height I have found most useful and then never touch it again.

The Nnewvante Floor Table has their brand name engraved in the surface. I find this to be distasteful. Noticeable advertising does not belong on furniture. The Cooper Desk Pro does have their logo on the surface, but it is subtle enough that I rarely notice it.

FMP Load-Out

My Field Message Pad is currently loaded with:

  • Pilot Vanishing Point, Fine Nib with a Pilot CON-40 piston converter loaded with Noodler’s Blue-Black. This is my new favorite human input device, but I got mine on eBay for a little less than half list price. I’ve been trying the blue-black ink for a few weeks now, but will probably go back to Noodler’s Black.
  • rOtring 800 loaded with Pentel Ain Stein 0.5 mm HB lead. This is another thing I only own because I found one for less than half the list price. I carried a rOtring 600 in the FMP for years, but I always get stressed about the thin metal tip. The 800 could conceivably be temporarily moved to a pocket if the situation warrants, unlike the pokey 600. And the twist mechanism is fun to play with. Both rOtring pencils are pieces of industrial art, in the same category as Curta calculators, but realistically they are no more functional than the much cheaper Staedtler 925. Quality lead made me reevaluate my previous dislike of mechanical pencils.
  • Fisher Space Pen M4. Sometimes you need to write off-planet. In pen.
  • Zebra Onamae Mackee. I used to carry a Sharpie. Then I decided to check if the Japanese had invented a better Sharpie. It turns out the answer is yes, they have.
  • CountyComm Titanium 15CM Ruler. For many years I carried the General Tools 300/1, but mine became bowed. This is a titanium knock-off of the same. The matte finish makes it harder to read, but I use this more as a straight edge than a measuring device. The bowed-ness of the General Tools stainless version is annoying in that application. The titanium version has been in my kit for 3 years and so far it is still straight and flat.

FMP Human Input Devices

A 14mm binder clip secures used pages, allowing the pad to quickly be flipped to a blank (or currently in progress) page.

I still primarily use the Rhodia A6 pads. I install them backwards, so that the cardboard backing is on top. This provides a writing surface to more easily utilize the back of the pages. Otherwise I’m writing on top of the FMP’s tool slots, which is annoying. (The thing the Canadians got right is to put heavy cardboard on both sides.)

When expecting inclement conditions, I drop the fountain pen and the Rhodia, and install a Rite in the Rain *46. But given my druthers, it’s all fountain pen all the time.

FMP Load-Out

The Mnemosyne Memo Pad

The Field Message Pad remains my primary writing setup. One of its strengths is the ability to switch between pads from Rite in the Rain and Rhodia.

The Field Memo Pad is a useful substitute for quick and short notes. I have multiple, which I keep stashed in different places and bags. But its weakness is that it is dependent upon the Rite in the Rain pad. When not outdoors, I like having the option of switching to normal (fountain pen friendly) paper.

I recently discovered the Maruman Mnemosyne N192A Twin Ring Memo Pad. They label this as B7, which ISO 216 defines as 3.5 x 4.9 inches. But in fact the N129A does not meet the standard. It is instead 3 x 5 inches. This is identical to the Rite in the Rain 135, making it a perfect substitute in this kit.

Mnemosyne Memo Pads

The paper in the N129A is lined, rather than graphed. This is unfortunate, but for my application I’m willing to overlook this imperfection.

In one of my kits I dropped a magnet down the back pocket. This pad now lives on my refrigerator, perfect for grocery lists and other kitchen related notes.

Fridge Notes

Zeiss Terra Operatic Optics

As a gentleman of class and culture, I frequent the opera. I usually cannot afford to sit in the front. Thus I need opera glasses.

Last year I purchased a pair of Zeiss Terra ED Pocket 8x25 binoculars, intended primarily for this application. I think these are an excellent pair of compact binoculars for general purpose use.

Zeiss Terra ED Pocket 8x25

As with my camera and rando bag, I keep Peak Design Anchor attachments on the binos so that I can carry them with the Peak Design Leash or other compatible straps. Dummy corded to one of the anchors is the Swarovski CL Rainguard. These fit perfectly on the Zeiss and help protect the optics from rain and dust when they aren’t in use.

Before purchasing the Zeiss, I borrowed a pair of discontinued Swarovski Habicht 8x20B binoculars. The smaller objective lenses on these made the package slightly more compact than that of the Zeiss, but I find the experience of actually looking through both pair of binoculars similar enough as to be practically identical (even in the low-light environment of opera). The modern version of the Swarovski is the CL Pocket 8x25. When one considers how well the Zeiss compare against Swarovski and the huge price difference between them, it becomes evident how good of a deal the Zeiss are.

The Zeiss binoculars, without strap or rain guard, weigh 325 grams or about 11.5 ounces. The discontinued Swarovski model tipped my scale at about 225 grams, so the extra money does contribute to a lighter package. But the Zeiss are light and compact enough for my needs.

When carrying the binos, I usually keep the lenses spread out. This creates a wider but flatter profile, which I find tends to carry better. I usually take the bus or train to the opera, and walk the midnight streets of Babylon home. With the lenses spread, and the strap worn cross body such that the binoculars rest on my side under an arm, I can comfortable conceal the package under a fitted and fashionable jacket with minimal printing. Most people probably think about binocular dimensions in terms of how much space they will occupy in a bag, but for my application I care more about concealment-when-worn. The Zeiss work well here.

Zeiss Terra: Opera Configuration

In addition to the opera, I also frequently carry the Zeiss binos on bike rides. There are many abandoned artillery batteries and fire control stations around here that make for good spots to watch the world go by. With magnification.

Zeiss Terra: 8x Magnification

I’ve not owned a good pair of binoculars before this. Over the past year of having these I have used them much more frequently than I thought I would.

Hafney FR-06 Mirrors

Last May I lost my right-side Sprintech Drop Bar Mirror in the baggage car of the Amtrak Coast Starlight. The right-side mirror is less useful than the left-side, so I didn’t bother about a replacement until after pedaling the 1,200 miles back home.

Upon returning, I decided to explore what other mirror options there may be rather than immediately purchasing another Sprintech mirror. I rode with a Take A Look Helmet Mirror for a few weeks, but found it to be less convenient than a mirror mounted to the bike. I messed with the D+D Oberlauda UltraLite Bike Mirror for a couple days. It’s a nice mirror, but I couldn’t find a mounting position that I was happy with on my drop bars. (While messing with this mirror I ended up moving my bell from the left to the right side.) Finally I purchased an FR06 from Hafny Components. I was immediately smitten with this, and bought a second FR06 for the other side a few days later.

The Hafny FR06 uses actual glass for the mirror. It is slightly convex – though less so than the Sprintech – and has a blue tint that does a great job of cutting back on glare. The optical clarity of the mirror is really excellent. This is entirely unnecessary for the application, but once I used it I didn’t want to go back to Sprintech’s chrome-coated ABS plastic.

Hafney FR06 Viewport

The FR06 fits snugly into my Rene Herse Rando Handlebars, even with the tail of my leather tape tucked in. After inserting, a bolt is tightened to expand the assembly, locking it into place. The mirror itself is attached to the mounting assembly via a ball and socket joint. A separate bolt allows this joint to be locked in place. Since the mounting assembly can be rotated in addition to the pan-and-tilt of the mirror joint, positioning everything takes a little trial and error. Once the correct position is found, everything can be tightened down enough such that a smart smack will not cause anything to budge. Or it can be left loose enough to allow for in-flight adjustments. I’ve switched between both approaches, and in neither case have I had any issue with visual clarity or the mirror moving of its own accord, even on rough gravel roads.

I mount the FR06 with the logo-side of the assembly facing down. I think this is considered to be upside down, but it allows me to tilt the mirror up a few degrees higher than I otherwise could, providing a better picture of what’s behind me above the actual road surface. With the logo on the assembly facing up I found that the mirror ran into the top of the assembly just 1 or 2 degrees shy of where I wanted it.

  • Hafney FR06 Mounting
  • Hafney FR06 Mounting

The shape of the FR06 mirror is different than the old Sprintech. I don’t find the shape of one to be superior to the other. Both provide me with the image I want to see at a quick glance. But the higher quality look and feel of the Hafney offering makes me happy, and I think contributes to the overall sex appeal of my ride. This is something I prioritize.

Cockpit

Hydro Flask Lightweight Trail Series Bottles

I’ve been using the Hydro Flask Lightweight Trail Series bottles for about a year and a half. They are the first double-wall insulated stainless steel bottles I’ve found that are light enough for me to want to carry regularly.

Hydro Flask Lightweight Trail Series

I first purchased the 21 oz when I happened to come across it on sale. I liked it enough to purchase the 24 oz a month later when I had an REI coupon. A couple months after that I purchased the 32 oz at full price.

I primarily use the bottles to keep cold water cold. I also sometimes use the 24 oz bottle to keep hot tea hot. I’ve not timed how long they hold the desired temperature, but they do so for at least as long as it takes me to drink whatever is in them, thus resetting the clock. They do not insulate as well as my Zojirushi SM-SA48-BA, but the Hydro Flasks are better as daily, general purpose bottles.

When buying a bottle, one of the things I look for is standard threading and neck diameters. I strongly dislike being locked in to proprietary lids. Hydro Flask meets this criteria, allowing me to replace their stock lids – which are adequate – with better options. The 21 oz has a standard narrow mouth. Mine wears a Topoko Straw Lid B. The 24 oz and 32 oz have standard wide mouth openings. Mine both wear the humangear capCAP+.

If not using the humangear capCAP+ on the wide mouth bottles, a splash guard is wanted. The old Guyot Designs SplashGuard will not work, nor will the newer HydraPak WaterGate. I have found the BottlePro SplashPro to work well.

I have used the 21 oz and 24 oz bottles most. I first EDCed the 21 oz for about 8 months, before deciding that I really wanted those extra 3 oz of volume. The 24 oz has been my EDC for the past 8 months. Both carry well on the bike in a King Cage Iris Cage.

Without any lids, the three bottles register on my calibrated scale as:

  • 7.80 oz, or 221.1 grams, for the 24 oz bottle
  • 8.59 oz, or 243.4 grams, for the 24 oz bottle
  • 10.80 oz, or 306.2 grams, for the 32 oz bottle

The bottles are not available in a raw finish. All three of mine are in the obsidian color, which is a nice chocolate brown. The paint does chip, particularly along the bottom, but this doesn’t bother me. One could probably avoid this by using one of those silicone boots, but these are not compatible with bike cages. I have dropped the bottles, and they do dent, but again, this does not bother me. If you’re looking for a pristine beauty queen, these bottles may not be your cup of tea. If you’re looking for functional, lightweight tools for a warming planet, these are great options.

  • Hydro Flask Lightweight Trail Series: Dents
  • Hydro Flask Lightweight Trail Series: Chipping