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2026-07-26

Kaweco AL Sport

I have previously maligned the performance of Kaweco pens. Despite this I am still a fan of the design of the Kaweco Sport, particularly in matte black aluminum. So when a Kaweco AL Sport in black appeared on eBay for especially cheap last May, I bought it.

The pen was described as lightly used. The pictures of the eBay listing led me to believe that the body was in great condition, but I was unsure about the nib. Given how cheap the pen was selling for, I assumed that the nib would be damaged. The Sport’s nib units in are readily available and easy to replace, so I decided I would preemptively order a new nib before the pen even shipped.

Most critiques of Kaweco pens on The Internets are related to the poor quality control of their nibs. Sometimes you get one that writes great, other times not so much. I avoided this problem by ordering my replacement nib from The Nibsmith, who offers a tune and smooth service for free with the purchase of any nib. I ordered a gold plated Medium nib and a black Fine nib. The pen itself was cheap enough that even after purchasing it and these two replacement nibs, I still paid less than the normal list price of the pen.

I also bought a gold clip, because I believe pens should have clips.

As it turns out, my two preemptive replacement nib purchases were unnecessary. The pen arrived looking like new, with all original packaging. As far as I could tell it was new. One of my two replacement nibs was backordered, delaying the shipment of them both, so I wrote with the Medium nib that came with the pen for about a month. It was perfectly fine. Less scratchy than the Fine nib in my Kaweco Classic Sport Piston Filler – which may just be attributable to the greater width – though not quite as pleasant as the gold nibs on either of my Pilot pens.

Writing with the Medium nib reinforced that I do prefer a Fine nib. I like a finer line, and the Medium requires more frequent ink refills. I was glad to have ordered the Fine black nib. I put that one in as soon as I received it and have been writing with it ever since. The Nibsmith tuned it to be silky smooth, and it is now a favorite. The Pilot Vanishing Point remains my favorite pen, but the Kaweco AL Sport now writes equally well, and it has dethroned the Pilot Elite as my favorite compact pocket pen. The need to thread and unthread the cap does still vaguely annoy me, but I love the aesthetics of the Kaweco and the texture of the matte black aluminum.

I did order the mini converter for the Kaweco, but as expected it is comically small. I haven’t used it once. Instead I refill standard international cartridges with a needle and syringe. I do the same thing with Pilot cartridges in my two Pilot pens.

The one issue I had with the Kaweco is the add-on clip. When installed, it slipped off so easily as to be useless. The same clip works great on the resin body of my Kaweco Classic Sport Piston Filler. I think the aluminum body does not provide enough friction for the clip. To address this, I cut a thin strip of double-sided tape and placed it around the cap at the position where I wanted the clip. The tape is thin enough that I was able to finagle the band of the clip over it. The clip hasn’t moved since, and I can now confidently clip the pen to anything I want.

I expect that my other Nibsmith-tuned nib will eventually find its way into a Kaweco Brass Sport, if one of those ever shows up on eBay for a low price.

2026-07-24

water, gear, bicycle

Tour Hydration

I’ve gone through many iterations of my water carrying strategy for touring. This is the current state of things. It will probably continue to evolve.

On every bicycle tour I pack my Sawyer Squeeze filter and accouterments. Thus a resupply may be natural (a creek, a lake, a trickle from a rock face, etc) or man-made (a cafe, a konbini, a water fountain at a park, etc).

I prefer to use an insulated, plastic bike bottle as my primary drinking vessel. I opt for the Camelbak Podium Chill 24oz with Mud Cap. A bike bottle is easy to drink from, both on and off the bike. Having something squeezable means I can also use it to periodically blast a little dirt off the bike. Something with a valve cover to keep the cooties off is key. Plastic insulated bottles are pretty poor at insulation when compared to double-wall metal bottles. This bottle won’t keep cold water cold, but it will keep it cool for a bit, which is valuable on a hot day. I’m willing to sacrifice some of the internal volume for the poor insulation. Camelbak’s Podium bottles have high-flow valves and (the post-2019 versions) are easy to disassemble for deep cleaning, so I tend to default to them whenever I need a plastic bike bottle (insulated or not).

I will always carry a bladder, as this is an efficient way to add more volume. And if I’m going to carry a bladder, I might as well pack one with a hose, even if the plan is just to use the bladder to refill the bottle. For the past couple years my preference here has been the HydraPak Seeker 2L with HydraFusion Tube. I typically use a frame bag, and this bladder will live in there, but if I am travelling framebag-less I can put the bladder in a fork bag or front pannier. The hose is secured somewhere in the cockpit using the Camelbak/Fidlock magnetic tube clip. The bladder usually wears the Plug-N-Play 42mm Cap, which allows the hose to easily attach and detach. My filter kit includes the 28mm Filter Adapter, allowing the Sawyer Squeeze to output directly into the bladder.

Given my druthers, every evening of a bike tour involves a tea session. A tea session means a dozen or so steepings in a titanium gaiwan. Heating water for each steeping is a waste of fuel. Instead I will heat all the water at once, and store it in an insulated vessel to be decanted into the gaiwan when needed. Since water temperature is important here, I want a bottle with good insulation. For this I carry the Hydro Flask Lightweight 24oz (which remains my EDC when not on tour). Generally I carry this bottle empty, stuffed into a pannier rather than keeping it full and accessible while riding.

Before starting the day’s pedaling in the morning, I fill the Camelbak bottle and the bladder. If I am confident that resupply points will be plentiful, I’ll keep the weight down by only putting 1 liter in the bladder. If I am unsure of the resupply opportunities, or I expect the day to be very hot, I’ll put 2 liters in the bladder. Thus I usually start the day carrying 1.7 to 2.7 liters. If I need extra capacity I can also fill the Hydro Flask bottle. If I need still more capacity, the dirty bag in my filter kit is a 2L 28mm Vecto. Thus my total carrying capacity is 5.4 liters.

I can always stop by a store and buy a bottle or two of water if I need to bump that capacity up more. But if I know I’m going to have a 24-hour (or more) stretch without a water source, my preference is to pack a second Seeker 2L bladder. I prefer two smaller bladders over one larger bladder both for the redundancy – if one bladder is punctured, I still have a second – and for the greater flexibility in how the water weight is distributed around the vehicle.

2026-05-09

gear, edc

Zebra Magnetics

As mentioned previously, two years ago I bought a ZebraLight H600c Mk IV headlamp. When I was ordering the light, The Internet also suggested that I buy magnets for it. Reader, I did.

From K&J Magnetics I bought the D82-N52. This is a 1/2” x 1/8” N52 neodymium disc magnet. It can be slid inside the spring of the tail cap. It does not interfere with the function of the cap. The flat top 18650 still fits, and the cap still screws on all the way.

I also bought the BX842. This is a 1 1/2” x 1/4” x 1/8” N42 neodymium block magnet. It can be attached to the pocket clip, and then secured with heat-shrink tubing.

I installed these magnets as soon as I got the light. I haven’t regretted it. The only minor annoyance is that when I ride to the beach and set my helmet down in the sand, the pocket clip magnet collects all the iron in the sand. I don’t like sand. It’s coarse and rough and irritating and it gets everywhere.

While the H600c is primarily a headlamp, I do occasionally carry it in my pocket, and I’ve yet to be annoyed by the magnets. If it was a dedicated pocket light, perhaps I’d feel differently.

2026-05-05

gear, eyewear

Rudy Mirrorshades

I find it useful to periodically review certain practices, in order to determine when I am doing something out of rote habit rather than intention. In that vein, a couple weeks ago I took the photochromic laser red lenses out of my Rudy Rydon spectacles that I’ve been rocking since 2011. In their place I inserted the Stealth ImpactX Photochromic 2 Black lenses that came with the Z87 Rydons.

The difference was immediate. Black (or grey) tinted lenses pretty much suck. They dim the day-star, but make everything look flat. Contrast disappears. Terrain becomes muted. This has significant practical disadvantages when you are out and about in the world. I had forgotten how much the red lenses were levelling up my capabilities by enhancing my visual acuity. Most of the time I’ve spent out-of-doors for the past 8 eight years has been spent wearing said red lenses, so to me this was not an augmented enhancement but instead was just the way the world looked.

The alternative lenses I always carry in my bag are the Polar 3FX Brown Laser (for environments where I want lenses that are polarized and/or darker – water and snow being the primary applications) but, like red, the brown tint also increases contrast. I do sometimes still wear the Micropores, but guess what tint those lenses have. Brown.

Still, I forced myself to wear the black (or grey) lenses for a week. I wanted to see if my opinion would change after I got used to them. Reader, it did not. But I did find myself wondering how much the “laser” treatment contributes to contrast. I had a coupon with Rudy, so I ordered the ImpactX Photochromic 2 Laser Black lenses. These have the same black (or grey) tint as the ones I was using, but with the laser treatment.

I’ve been wearing those lenses the past few days now, and they actually do seem better. I’m not constantly thinking about how flat everything looks, and I can see potholes and such. They certainly remain inferior to the contrast provided by red (or brown) lenses. Basically they make everyday look kind of gloomy and overcast, even when it isn’t. On the other hand, the silver mirrorshade effect does look bitchin’ – and that counts for something – but that’s likely the only reason to wear them. I think the bottom line is that if you’re wearing black (or grey) tinted lenses, you are leaving capability on the table.

If my karma is to be reincarnated as a razorgirl, the photochromic laser red lenses are probably what I’ll get surgically implanted.

2025-04-08

gear, review, stationery, edc

Pilot Elite

I’ve been attracted to the form factor of the Kaweco Sport for a while, though the low capacity of the piston converter is a bit of a turn off. Last year when they released the aluminum body piston filler my attraction increased, but those pens cost more than I want to spend. Then at the end of the year they released a resin version of the piston filler for a lower price, and I found a sale with a good discount during the holidays. I bought one.

I like the pen. I especially like to carry it in the sleeve pocket of my MA-1, because I like the idea of living in a world where people walk around with fountain pens in MA-1s. Be the change you want to see in the world. Unfortunately, I scored that Pilot Vanishing Point on eBay at the end of 2023. That has been my daily writer ever since, and purchasing the Kaweco Classic Sport Piston Filler made clear that the Vanishing Point has ruined me for other pens. Specifically, on two points.

First, the Vanishing Point has an 18k gold nib. The Kaweco Sport does not. Kaweco’s steel nib isn’t bad, but it isn’t gold, and when I write with it I often find myself thinking “I could be writing with the VP instead.” It isn’t scratchy, but it isn’t not scratchy.

Second, the cap of the Kaweco Sport screws on. I journal daily, but that’s the only point at which I am sitting down with the intention to write. Any other time I grab a pen during the day it is to jot down some quick note. The clicky clicker of the Vanishing Point is extremely convenient for that. Needing to take the time (and two hands) to unscrew the Kaweco’s cap is comparatively annoying.

But I do really like the form factor of the Kaweco Sport. I wished for a pocket pen with a gold nib and a non-threaded cap. And then the universe opened my eyes to the Pilot E95S. At 4.7” when capped, it is a little longer than the Kaweco’s 4.1”, but it is still pocket sized. And it has a gold nib. And the cap is not threaded. And it is expensive.

So I went searching on eBay for a used one. I looked periodically for a few weeks and nothing turned up for an acceptable price. But the E95S is a modern re-issue of a classic pen called the Elite. Once I figured out that I should search for “Pilot Elite”, a plethora of reasonably priced options appeared. This is how I came to purchase my first vintage fountain pen.

The pen is everything I wanted it to be. The Pilot Vanishing Point is still my favorite, but the Elite is a close second.

Removing and posting the cap does take longer than clicking the Vanishing Point, but is still quicker than unscrewing anything, and it is immensely satisfying. All the reviews I read of both the Elite and the E95S mentioned how nice the action of uncapping, capping and posting the pen feels. They weren’t wrong. The taper of the body and the steel structure within the cap – a sort of leaf spring – provides the feeling of a smooth, perfect press fit. It is mildly addicting.

The nib is great, as expected. The Elite was available with both 18k and 14k gold nibs. I bought a 14k in fine, and it feels just as smooth and pleasant as the 18k fine nib in the Vanishing Point. Maybe a hair thinner, which makes me want to use a slightly wetter ink. But my two favorite inks are still Noodler’s Heart of Darkness and Noodler’s Army Air Corp, and I enjoy both inks interchangeably in both pens.

The code at the base of my nib is H977. This means the pen was manufactured in Hiratsuka in September 1977.

There are a few Elites on eBay for $30-40. If the pen is that cheap, it is probably one of the steel nib versions that was made in Korea. The Japanese gold nib versions are more expensive, but I found that if you do not care about a few scratches – which, for a pocket pen, I do not – there are plenty of attractive options in the $50-75 range. I think that’s a great deal for this level of quality. I already want to buy a second.

It fits in the MA-1, too.

2025-02-03

gear, edc

Window Film Flood

I have mentioned previously that I prefer the flood lens on my Elzetta Alpha. My primary use case for an EDC light is lighting up a room – or the dark recesses behind furniture. Neither case calls for a spotlight with a lot of throw.

Last year I decided to finally allow myself to buy a ZebraLight headlamp, which I had been jonesing over for years. I knew I wanted one that ran on 18650 batteries, and I knew I wanted a warm temperature. The final decision required to land on a specific model was whether I wanted a lens with flood or a lens with throw. Unlike an EDC pocket light, with a headlamp I was pretty sure I wanted something with throw. My use case for a headlamp is to light up the ground a ways in front of me, not what is already right at my feet. Before finalizing my decision, I did a bit of searching on the World Wide Web to see if anyone else out there had a good argument against my inclination. They did not. I bought the H600c Mk IV.

However, what I did find is that a lot of the flashlight nerds buy lenses with throw, and then make them more floody by applying window privacy film. Specifically, the D-C-Fix “Milky” film was preferred. I thought this sounded great. Get your torch with a lens that offers nice throw, put a film cutout on there if you decide you want more flood, rip off the film when you decide you want more throw. Rinse and repeat.

I’ve been using my ZebraLight headlamp for 10 months now and haven’t covered the lens with the film once. For my applications, the throw lens is perfect.

But I did try using the film to cover the standard throw lens on the Elzetta Alpha. I switched back and forth between that and the flood lens a bit and decided I preferred the standard lens and film combination. Compared to the actual flood lens, it is just a little less floody, with a little more throw and bit more of a spot. I’ve been rocking that for the past 10 months, and I’m still really happy with it.

The moral of the story is that, if given the option, I probably won’t buy a flood lens again. Using the film lets me purchase one lens and play in whichever world I want. Also I’m afraid of commitment.

2024-12-21

gear, review, edc, audio

Loop Switch

I’ve been carrying the Loop Switch earplugs everyday for the past 13 months now. A couple months ago, Loop replaced this model with the Switch 2. This v2 Switch looks to be a minor incremental upgrade, but overall the same product. I think my impressions of the v1 Switch are still relevant.

The Switch is an earplug with a rotary mechanism that allows the attenuation to be adjusted between three different modes:

Quiet (v1: 25 dB SNR, v2: 26 dB SNR)
Experience (v1: 21 dB SNR, v2: 23 dB SNR)
Engage (v1: 17 dB SNR, v2: 20 dB SNR)

My most frequent application for earplugs is nightclubbing. Having three modes on a single pair of plugs, which can be adjusted in-ear, is a really great capability in this application. If I happen to find myself near a speaker, I can crank them up to Quiet. Then when I join the cool kids in the back, I dial them down to Engage and can carry on a conversation with someone while still being protected. At shows with multiple artists I often find myself setting them to Experience for an opener, going down to Engage between sets, and then up to Quiet for the headliner.

I have not found any other earplug that offers anything quite like this. There are others that have multiple filters that you can swap between, but the earplugs need to be removed from your ear to do that. And even then, trying to mess around with taking out one small part and install another, in the dark, in the middle of Club Hel, is not a winning strategy.

Previously, my preferred plugs were the SureFire EP3 Sonic Defenders. These are in a somewhat similar vein as the Loop Switch, in that they have filter caps that can be opened or closed to adjust the attenuation. I find the Switch to be superior. The Sonic Defenders offer 24 dB SNR when the caps are closed, which is good, but only 11 dB SNR when the caps are open. This isn’t much, so I find that my for use cases the Sonic Defenders only really get used in cap-closed mode. The range of attenuation offered by the Switch (both v1 and v2) is a more useful neighborhood for the environments I operate in.

The mechanical nature of the Switch means that the body itself is a rigid plastic. This makes them inappropriate for sleeping. At least, if you spend any time on your side. They don’t stick out much, but they do so enough that sleeping on them is uncomfortable. I bought a pair of Loop Quiet 2 earplugs this summer for sleeping. These are entirely made of a soft silicone, and I find them comfortable to wear all night. I do not sleep with earplugs regularly, but anytime I’m on the road I throw the Quiets in my bag (along with the Switch – they’re small enough that I’m fine with carrying both sets) in case the hotel or campsite or redoubt or whatever is loud.

I’ve worn the Switch for multiple consecutive hours, and find them to be perfectly comfortable (as long as you are not laying on them). With other plugs it’s often a relief to finally remove them, not because they cause any discomfort when installed, but just because they feel like they’ve been cutting me off from the world for a few hours. Removing them is like coming up for a breath of air – a breathe the free air again my friend sort of moment. Not so with the Switch, I think because I am periodically dropping them down to Engage mode when appropriate. Sometimes I forget to take them out for a while after leaving.

The Switch comes with four different sizes of silicone tips to adjust the fit. Replacement tips are available to extend the life of the tool.

The dial of the Switch has a small tab protruding. This provides a haptic reference point for what mode is selected, and gives you something to grab on to when moving the dial. It works well enough for switching the dial between Quiet and Experience modes. But Engage mode is the most anterior position on the dial, and when in that mode I find the tab slips underneath my tragus. It is small enough that this causes no discomfort, but the smallness also means it can be difficult to get purchase on the tab to pull the dial back to either of the other two modes. I have to slip a fingernail under there to grab it, which sometimes takes a couple seconds to get right. This is the only negative thing I have to say about the Switch, and I am told this was fixed on the Switch 2. It is not enough of an annoyance to make me want to move to new model while my current ones are still working fine, but I look forward to someday upgrading.

All of the earplugs offered by Loop feel a little overpriced, but the two models I have are good products, and I think it’s great that they are trying to normalize PPE into a fashion accessory. I want more of that in the world.

2024-12-12

gear, stationery

Spark Joy

I have a rule that I am allowed to purchase certain goods whenever I both can afford to do so and think that I may possibly have a use for them. It is a small list, including items such as Voile straps, Abloy Protec2 padlocks, and Pelican cases. Even if the specific model I purchase ends up not working for whatever project I currently have in mind, I can always use more of these items, and will never regret the purchase¹. In the parlance of our times, these items spark joy.

Recently I determined that my zibaldoni situation was getting out of hand. I had completed notebooks in two different locations, empty notebooks in three, and accoutrements like covers and inserts all over the place. “Self,” I said to myself, “This situation will not stand.” But it seemed like the perfect excuse to buy another Pelican case. I trawled eBay for a week until I found a good deal on a used yellow 1450. This now holds all notebooks, along with their directly related accessories. It sits on top of a cabinet next to my other 1450 (a previous eBay find). I figure I’ve got space for at least two more.

Notes

↵ Purchases of all other durable goods go through a protracted, multi-day period of hem and haw, where I ask myself: do I really need this thing, is the particular model I'm eyeing really the best suited to the problem I am trying to solve, will the item work in the short run but cause me to have regrets later on, etc.

This article was modified 2024-12-13.