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2025-01-30

Tube Talk

I enjoy Jan Heine’s blog. I’ve been reading it regularly since, I think, 2012. I learn something new from most posts. His book on all-road bikes is great. When I saw his post titled Why TPU Tubes are Better for the Earth in my feed reader, I expected to learn something about the difference in manufacturing inputs or emissions between butyl and TPU tubes. Instead I found myself reading crazy talk about how everybody goes through butyl tubes like candy and how they’re so hard to patch that nobody bothers. I guffawed. Then I said “what the fuck”. Out loud. With my voice.

In theory, butyl tubes can also be patched. To make this worth while, it’s best to collect a pile and fix them in one large batch. Set up an assembly line of sorts…

Let’s face it: Those of us who patch our butyl tubes usually have a pile of tubes in the basement, waiting for the day when we’ll get around to patching them.

I cannot fathom an individual having enough punctured butyl tubes to justify considering an assembly line repair process. This would take me, like, a decade to collect.

The last time I had a flat was on the Oregon coast in June 2023. The time before that was when I picked up a roofing nail on Potrero Hill that tore open my tire in December 2022. I think next on the list was about 6 months before that, when I flatted twice on the same road in Napa county – not because I failed to clean out debris after fixing the first one, but because some of the roads up there have been so destroyed by heavy trucks rebuilding after the fires that I just got two punctures in two different parts of the wheel a few blocks apart. These events are rare enough that I actually remember them.

When I do get a flat I just take out my patch kit and fix it. It takes like 5 minutes. If the weather outside is frightful, or if I’m on a schedule and don’t have those 5 minutes, I swap in my spare tube. Then when I get home (or to camp) that evening, I fix it.

This concept of not addressing a problem that is so quick and easy to correct, and instead letting these problems pile up until you have a basement-full, is difficult for me to understand. It’s like continually buying a new pair of underwear every day because doing laundry is too hard. It suggests to me a moral failing which, if extended to all the similarly small problems that one regularly encounters in life, will lead to collapse of our species.

That’s where TPU tubes score. Patching them is easy: Just wipe the puncture with alcohol and stick on a self-adhesive patch. That’s all. It’s so easy that you could do it by the roadside. The alcohol wipes are sealed, so they don’t dry out—your patch kit lasts forever, ready when you need it.

Plot twist: I patch butyl tubes by the roadside.

Those little foil packets of alcohol wipes are not impermeable. Ask anyone who has neglected a medical kit for a few years, only to come back and find that all the prep pads are dry. They will last a long time when stored in a typical indoor environment. They will last less long when carried out in the world, exposed to varying temperatures, humidity, sun, rain, etc. Tube repair kits, like human repair kits, need to be carried outside. If I start carrying a TPU patch kit, the alcohol wipes are going to be on a rotation schedule, just like my vulcanizing fluid. Only then will TPU patch kit last forever. Just like my butyl patch kit.

The new Rene Herse TPU tubes are neat. They pack down to a much smaller size than butyl tubes. I am interested in using one to replace the spare butyl tube I carry under my saddle. To this end, I have been running one in the front wheel of my new bike for about a month and a half. I do not intend to regularly use the tubes in my tires, but I can’t carry something as a backup until I have a few months experience actually using it¹.

I will test the TPU tube for at least another month and a half before I decide if it will replace my spare butyl, but the preliminary results are in. I have noticed no difference in the ride quality. I have noticed no difference in the speed with which it loses pressure². I have noticed no different in the puncture resistance³. This is all great news. If the TPU tube continues to perform exactly like a butyl tube, but store more compactly, I will happily carry it as my spare. They are light and compact enough that the next time I go on tour, I may even carry a second or third spare.

Notes

↵ It is an axiom that carrying emergency supplies which you have never actually used is idiotic. I try not to be an idiot.
↵ When I first installed the TPU tube, it lost about half its pressure in about 24-hours. I pumped it back up and the same thing happened again. I threw a wrench on the valve core and was able to tighten it about 1/8th of a turn. Since then it has held pressure the same as the butyl tube in the rear wheel. I think the TPU tube shipped from the factory with a loose valve core. If I do choose to carry one (or more) as a spare, I will crank down on its valve core as soon as I received it to ensure that I won't have to think about that whenever I eventually need the tube.
↵ Spoiler alert: I have had zero flats on this bike since it was built 10 months ago.

2024-10-20

bicycle, tea

A Typical Weekend: Pacific Overwatch Edition

Pedal across the Golden Gate to abandoned coastal fortifications.
Brew premium oolong.
Engage in staring contest with the Pacific.
There is no step 4.

2024-09-29

micro, bicycle

I had my first road-side repair on my Rohloff bike today.

While flying down the side of Tamalpais via Eldridge for the first time in a couple months I found myself wondering if that trail somehow managed to get even rockier. Once I regained the pavement at sea level I went to shift and my twist shifter just spun. Turns out I had rattled the shift box off the hub.

To be fair, I hadn’t popped off the rear wheel or otherwise touched that bolt since before my recent tour, so it could have been working itself loose over the course of the two airplane flights and 700+ miles through the northwestern hinterlands, rather than just the ridiculous rocks of Eldridge, Indian Fire, Blithedale, et al.

It’s easy enough reattach, though since I had moved the twist shiftier I had to reset the gear selection. I think that’s a pretty good reliability record for 7 months of riding. Maintenance has been minimal: I’ve swapped the brake pads, and I think I’ve lubed the chain twice. I think all the components are just about broken in now.

2024-09-21

gear, bicycle, review

Ghostrider Equipment Kermode

I wanted to carry bear spray on my recent tour through grizz country. A stem bag, such as the imitable Revelate Mountain Feedbag works well for this, but the two stem bags that are always part of my touring luggage system are already used for other purposes. There’s a number of people out there selling solutions to the problem of how to carry bear spray on a bicycle. I looked at all the ones I could find online, and chose the Ghostrider Equipment Kermode.

Ghostrider offers their holster in a direct mount option, where it attaches to standard bottle cage bosses. This would require giving up a bottle cage, which is unappealing to me. They also offer a universal mount option, which just includes two Voile Nano straps. I bought the universal option so that I could mount the holster any place I could dream up. I ended up strapping it down near the top of the down tube, canted to the right-hand side. This did not interfere with any of the other equipment that gets attached to my bike in touring mode, and allowed for a quick and easy draw. The position also did not interfere with drawing my bottle to the right-hand side from its down tube cage.

The holster worked out great. It carried an 8.1 oz can of Counter Assault bear seasoning perfectly. No rattling or moving around, yet easy to pop out with minimal effort.

Ghostrider includes an extra retention strap that can wrap around the can. Its use is optional, and mostly for peace of mind when flying down rocky trail. I kept it on while I was riding. For me, carrying the bear spray was mostly about having it in camp. I wanted the can to be accessible all the time, but I didn’t think it likely that I would have an argument with a bear while riding down the highway. I decided that the extra motion required to unhook the retention strap was acceptable. But an important factor in this decision was that I knew that if I did not keep that strap secured, I would never see it again.

This is my one complaint about the holster. Neither end of the retention strap is well secured to the holster itself. Both are just pulled over open hooks that are molded into the holster. When using the strap to wrap around a can, the tension keeps it in place. But when you flick off one end to release the can, the other end of the strap can easily fall off. Losing it eventually is pretty much guaranteed if you don’t keep both ends hooked. And it is some sort of proprietary doohickey, not something you can easily replace. I like that the strap can be completely removed, but I’d also like to be able to attach just one end and trust that it’ll still be there when next I look down. I also think it could work just as well if it was simply a piece of shock cord, which could be easily replaced if the user does misplace (or break) it.

This complaint is minor, as the holster does hold the can securely enough for my riding even without the extra strap. It is an excellent solution to the problem of carrying bear spray on a bike.

2024-09-19

gear, bicycle

Securing Dropouts

When packing a bike for air travel or shipping, at least one wheel usually must be removed. This leaves the fork or rear dropout susceptible to damage if inward force is applied to the void where the hub of the removed wheel would usually be. Some sort of rigid spacer must be inserted into the axle space to prevent this. Rolled-up cardboard is a common disposable solution.

When searching to see if there was a better solution to this, I came across a post on Bicycles Stack Exchange:

The best and cheapest way to protect your fork and rear drop out is to use a fully threaded bolt, four large washers and four butterfly nuts. A washer and butterfly nut goes inside on both sides and the same is attached on the outside of both sides. Tighten the two interior butterflies against the washers where they are snug and not pushing the frame/fork out past its limits. Then tighten the butterflies on the outside firmly inward, to immobilize the fork or rear dropout.

For the past 20 years, I have been shipping approximately 100-200 bikes to the east coast and back for a yearly event, and this has kept all bikes shipped without damage. It costs approximately $3-5. Soft sided cases are terrible unless there’s a frame involved, and that’s usually marginal.

If I could post a photo of the item I would, but I’m not sure how. In the diagram below, F is the fork or frame, - is bolt or threaded rod, { is a butterfly nut or wing nut, and | is a washer.

- } | F | { - - - } | F | { -

I thought this was a great idea, made even better by the fact that I use Pitlock security skewers on my bikes.

Pitlock skewers usually are just threaded on the business end, with the rest of the rod being smooth. But I recalled seeing that Pitlock also offered fully threaded 240mm joker skewers. Switching to these allows me to implement the above solution with my normal skewer and Pitlock bits, with only the addition of two M5 fender washers and wing nuts (per wheel). That’s only an additional 9 grams (per wheel) to add to my touring kit.

I used this solution on my recent Redoubt tour around Idaho and Montana. It worked great on both flights, despite TSA’s comical attempt to repack the box after inspection on my return flight. The box I rescued from my local bike shop was long enough that I only had to remove the front wheel (and front fender and front rack), so I didn’t have to use this trick on the rear dropouts. I still packed the two washers and wing nuts for the rear in case I found myself with a smaller box for the flight home. They’re small enough and light enough that I don’t mind packing them just-in-case.

I’m glad to have a permanent solution to this problem. So far I have only purchased a single pair of the fully threaded skewers for my new touring bike, but I’ll probably buy a second pair to replace the normal Pitlock skewers on my road bike in case I ever decide to fly with that one.

2024-07-25

gear, bicycle, bondage

Further Developments in Bondage

Back when I began using ROK Straps, I added ITW Web Dominators to control the tail-end of the strap. This tail-end has a sewn-in loop, just like the loops that are used to connect the strap to the mounting platform. Years later somebody told me that you are meant to run this tail-end loop through the male side of the buckle, thus securing the excess without any need for Web Dominators or Velcro OneWrap or any such tomfoolery. This is obvious in retrospect, but I didn’t realize it until it was pointed out to me.

I removed my Web Dominators and have not looked back. Looping the Rok Strap through itself in this matter allows you to more quickly adjust the length of the strap, as you do not need to take the time to roll or unroll and secure the tail-end. It works great both when the straps are not in use and stowed flat on the rack, and when they are expanded out to secure a large load.

2024-06-05

bicycle, gear

Hafny FR03 Jones Bar Mirror

I tried a few different mirrors on my Jones Loop H-Bars.

The D+D Oberlauda UltraLite Bike Mirror mounted underneath the bars just before the weld worked decently, but the mirror’s clamp is annoying when you want to rest your hand on top of that part of the bar.

After further trials, I developed a preference for the Hafny HF-M951B-FR03. This opinion is shared by others.

The FR03 uses the same high quality glass and mount as the FR06 model Hafny on my road bike, but the two models have slight differences. The mirror of the FR03 is round, where the FR06 has a subtle teardrop shape. The bracket which connects the FR03 to the bar plug attaches to the edge of the mirror, where on the FR06 the bracket attaches in the center of the rear of the mirror. These differences make the FR03 better suited to flat bars, and the FR06 better suited to drop bars.

A bike with Jones bar is a wide load, and a bar-end mirror makes it even wider. I compensate for this by only having a left-side mirror, which gets the job done. I also keep the adjustment bolt loose enough that I can tilt the mirror into the bars if I’m squeezing through a narrow passage.

2024-04-21

micro, bicycle