A San Francisco Bookshop Tour
San Francisco is a good town for bookshops. This is a route I’ve done a few times. It’s like a bar crawl, but with fewer alcoholics.
Start at Stout Architectural Books. This is a great shop for flipping through pretty picture books – think Phaidon, Taschen, etc. Most of what they carry is foreign to me, and not the type of book I am likely to come across elsewhere. I can spend a long time here.
From Stout, it is only a few blocks to City Lights. This is the most famous bookshop in the city. It is always be packed with tourists, which makes it less pleasant for browsing. It isn’t a large place, considering the size of their collection, so you’re constantly squeezing around people in narrow aisles. But I seem to only end up here on weekends – weekdays may be better. If you are here on the weekend, you should see the legendary V. Vale and his RE/SEARCH Publications table just outside, in the alley between City Lights and Vesuvio. Make sure to browse his wares.
If you need a potty break at this point, you’re in luck. San Francisco is notorious for how few publicly accessible bathrooms it has, but one of the nicest is just a few blocks away at The Ritz-Carlton on Stockton & California. Walk in the main entrance like you belong. Try to project an aura of being parvenue and you’ll fit right in. Take an immediate left, and in maybe 10 or 15 feet there will be a short hallway to your left. The bathrooms are at the end of that hallway. No keys or code required. I don’t always defecate in this part of town, but when I do, I poo at The Ritz.
The next bookshop, Green Apple Books, is across town in the Richmond. This is the best general-interest bookshop in the city. It doesn’t look like much from the street, but is deceptively large inside. Of all the shops, this one takes the longest to browse. It is about 4 miles from City Lights and The Ritz, so if you’re on foot you might want to jump on the 1 California.
From Green Apple, head two blocks west to Pho Huynh Sang. This is, in fact, not a bookshop. But they have good phở and bún, so I pretty much always eat here when I’m in this part of town and can justify a meal. The staff is friendly and the place is big enough that there’s always a place to sit without having to wait in a line.
After you’ve had a meal, you are allowed desert, so you might as well walk one block east back to Toy Boat. I usually buy a loaf of the banana bread.
The final stop is Borderlands, recently relocated to the Haight. This is our genre bookshop – scifi, horror, fantasy. I’m only interested in the first of those genres, so I don’t usually spend too long here. But I do like to at least peruse the new arrivals table in the front, and the used book shelf in the back room under the office window. The staff here are exceptionally good at recommendations. Give them the name of some obscure SF book you liked, and they’ll be able to recommend something else similar. You don’t even need to remember the title – just give them a vague description of the plot and what the primary color on the cover was and they’ll probably know what you’re talking about.
I had my first road-side repair on my Rohloff bike today.
While flying down the side of Tamalpais via Eldridge for the first time in a couple months I found myself wondering if that trail somehow managed to get even rockier. Once I regained the pavement at sea level I went to shift and my twist shifter just spun. Turns out I had rattled the shift box off the hub.
To be fair, I hadn’t popped off the rear wheel or otherwise touched that bolt since before my recent tour, so it could have been working itself loose over the course of the two airplane flights and 700+ miles through the northwestern hinterlands, rather than just the ridiculous rocks of Eldridge, Indian Fire, Blithedale, et al.
It’s easy enough reattach, though since I had moved the twist shiftier I had to reset the gear selection. I think that’s a pretty good reliability record for 7 months of riding. Maintenance has been minimal: I’ve swapped the brake pads, and I think I’ve lubed the chain twice. I think all the components are just about broken in now.
Ghostrider Equipment Kermode
I wanted to carry bear spray on my recent tour through grizz country. A stem bag, such as the imitable Revelate Mountain Feedbag works well for this, but the two stem bags that are always part of my touring luggage system are already used for other purposes. There’s a number of people out there selling solutions to the problem of how to carry bear spray on a bicycle. I looked at all the ones I could find online, and chose the Ghostrider Equipment Kermode.
Ghostrider offers their holster in a direct mount option, where it attaches to standard bottle cage bosses. This would require giving up a bottle cage, which is unappealing to me. They also offer a universal mount option, which just includes two Voile Nano straps. I bought the universal option so that I could mount the holster any place I could dream up. I ended up strapping it down near the top of the down tube, canted to the right-hand side. This did not interfere with any of the other equipment that gets attached to my bike in touring mode, and allowed for a quick and easy draw. The position also did not interfere with drawing my bottle to the right-hand side from its down tube cage.
The holster worked out great. It carried an 8.1 oz can of Counter Assault bear seasoning perfectly. No rattling or moving around, yet easy to pop out with minimal effort.
Ghostrider includes an extra retention strap that can wrap around the can. Its use is optional, and mostly for peace of mind when flying down rocky trail. I kept it on while I was riding. For me, carrying the bear spray was mostly about having it in camp. I wanted the can to be accessible all the time, but I didn’t think it likely that I would have an argument with a bear while riding down the highway. I decided that the extra motion required to unhook the retention strap was acceptable. But an important factor in this decision was that I knew that if I did not keep that strap secured, I would never see it again.
This is my one complaint about the holster. Neither end of the retention strap is well secured to the holster itself. Both are just pulled over open hooks that are molded into the holster. When using the strap to wrap around a can, the tension keeps it in place. But when you flick off one end to release the can, the other end of the strap can easily fall off. Losing it eventually is pretty much guaranteed if you don’t keep both ends hooked. And it is some sort of proprietary doohickey, not something you can easily replace. I like that the strap can be completely removed, but I’d also like to be able to attach just one end and trust that it’ll still be there when next I look down. I also think it could work just as well if it was simply a piece of shock cord, which could be easily replaced if the user does misplace (or break) it.
This complaint is minor, as the holster does hold the can securely enough for my riding even without the extra strap. It is an excellent solution to the problem of carrying bear spray on a bike.
Securing Dropouts
When packing a bike for air travel or shipping, at least one wheel usually must be removed. This leaves the fork or rear dropout susceptible to damage if inward force is applied to the void where the hub of the removed wheel would usually be. Some sort of rigid spacer must be inserted into the axle space to prevent this. Rolled-up cardboard is a common disposable solution.
When searching to see if there was a better solution to this, I came across a post on Bicycles Stack Exchange:
The best and cheapest way to protect your fork and rear drop out is to use a fully threaded bolt, four large washers and four butterfly nuts. A washer and butterfly nut goes inside on both sides and the same is attached on the outside of both sides. Tighten the two interior butterflies against the washers where they are snug and not pushing the frame/fork out past its limits. Then tighten the butterflies on the outside firmly inward, to immobilize the fork or rear dropout.
For the past 20 years, I have been shipping approximately 100-200 bikes to the east coast and back for a yearly event, and this has kept all bikes shipped without damage. It costs approximately $3-5. Soft sided cases are terrible unless there’s a frame involved, and that’s usually marginal.
If I could post a photo of the item I would, but I’m not sure how. In the diagram below,
F
is the fork or frame,-
is bolt or threaded rod,{
is a butterfly nut or wing nut, and|
is a washer.
- } | F | { - - - } | F | { -
I thought this was a great idea, made even better by the fact that I use Pitlock security skewers on my bikes.
Pitlock skewers usually are just threaded on the business end, with the rest of the rod being smooth. But I recalled seeing that Pitlock also offered fully threaded 240mm joker skewers. Switching to these allows me to implement the above solution with my normal skewer and Pitlock bits, with only the addition of two M5 fender washers and wing nuts (per wheel). That’s only an additional 9 grams (per wheel) to add to my touring kit.
I used this solution on my recent Redoubt tour around Idaho and Montana. It worked great on both flights, despite TSA’s comical attempt to repack the box after inspection on my return flight. The box I rescued from my local bike shop was long enough that I only had to remove the front wheel (and front fender and front rack), so I didn’t have to use this trick on the rear dropouts. I still packed the two washers and wing nuts for the rear in case I found myself with a smaller box for the flight home. They’re small enough and light enough that I don’t mind packing them just-in-case.
I’m glad to have a permanent solution to this problem. So far I have only purchased a single pair of the fully threaded skewers for my new touring bike, but I’ll probably buy a second pair to replace the normal Pitlock skewers on my road bike in case I ever decide to fly with that one.